New Horizons – Alaska to Asia

Osaka does not have a reputation as a city with rich historic or spiritual sights, but it has an exciting street life and lively food scene.

We disembarked the cruise on a very rainy day….. but undaunted, admired the colorful store fronts on our way to tiny snack shops and markets for samples of Osaka’s local delicacies.

Osaka’s famous “Running Man” billboard….. the see-through plastic umbrella was a great asset!

Kyoto – Tertius & Ty’s good friend from South Africa, Yvonne, joined us in Kyoto for a couple of days.

The wet weather did not at all deter the many tourists who enjoy dressing up in kimonos and obis to parade through Kyoto’s shopping streets.

The traditional ryokan (Japanese inn) where we stayed is almost 200 years old….with comfortable sleeping futons and attentive service.

Fueled by plenty of Japanese wine, the guys took a smoke break and tested their walking skills on Japanese clogs.

Hilarity ensued… with Henry’s Japanese tabi socks a particular source of amusement. Or is it how he wears them?

From mainland Alaska through the Aleutian Islands and across the Pacific to Japan, we’ve had a ball. Now we head our separate ways…. And Henry takes a well-earned break.

I am slowly but surely going to be catching up on this trip over the next couple of weeks…. Next posting will be from our time in western China.

Rainy and overcast weather plagued most of our stopovers along the coast of Japan. Here are Tertius and Henry listening raptly to a presentation about a volcano we cannot see from a guide we cannot understand…..

And here we pose with Sally in front of a representation of the Mount Fuji we would have seen had we been there on a clear day…

A great exception was the port of Aomori, which gave us a bright welcome….

Here they have a museum devoted to “nebuta” lanterns, colorful illuminated floats that are paraded through the streets during a popular summer festival. The artistry is incredible.

A favorite travel pastime is eating….. and the area around Aomori is renowned for its gorgeous fruit….

And vegetables…..

And, of course – seafood. (It’s a port.) Here we prepare to grill our own fish and crustaceans dockside over an open fire…..

Many Japanese ports have aquariums…. This one in Oarai was excellent.

Unfortunately, we found this display of a tiny octopus in an enclosure with the accoutrements associated with EATING octopus to be sad and insensitive….

A nearby noodle house gave us our most authentic meal….. no octopus on the menu!

The Port of Sendai boasts a Kirin beer factory, with a generous tasting opportunity following the formal tour.

A food truck area alongside the ship provided a chance to briefly connect with some locals…..

Great “tastes” of Japan before we disembarked the ship in Osaka for the next chapters……

(Apologies for the delays in posting our experiences….. internet access in China was limited. Hoping to catch up in the week to come! Please stay tuned!)

A beautiful country, Japan. The ship made several stops along the largely commercial eastern coast, then docked in Osaka.

Our current internet access is not so good; unfortunately we will not be able to post with photos for a week or two. Please stay tuned…. There is lots to report!

Life is not so hard here on the ship.

The Resolution carries about 120 passengers with a like number of naturalists, photographers, crew and hotel staff.

The interior of the igloo, kitted out with a cozy bed.

In traditional cruise fashion, food is artfully prepared and abundant….

In keeping with the environmentally-conscious theme of an expedition, one of the meals was prepared almost exclusively from the types of food that most of us consign to the disposal or compost heap (apple cores, cauliflower leaves, banana peels). We also learned about the commendable practices of food management onboard that minimize food waste. Kudos!

As for animal spotting in the ocean – it’s almost impossible to illustrate the thrill and excitement of seeing the hump of a sperm whale from a distance, the burst of spray from its blowhole…. Especially with an iPhone camera. I won’t even try, other than to post the following clip that Henry took when the ship visited a site with hundreds of dolphins and other sea mammals leaping and splashing in a feeding frenzy.

We were so fortunate to have many such sightings of several different types of whale, leaping tuna and graceful dolphins. Only slightly less thrilling was a human leap – Tertius stepped up to do a subpolar plunge…..

One sight that can be captured ad infinitum to ad nauseum – even with an iPhone: the sunrises, sunsets and stunning cloud formations in this pristine and tumultuous part of our planet.

There are many, many more….. but you “get the picture.”

Across the Pacific Ocean, we next enter some seaports in Japan.

St Matthew and the Pribilof Islands are floating in the Bering Sea west of mainland Alaska; the Aleutian Islands are part of the chain that extends from the long Alaska Peninsula.

Formed by volcanic action and in a subpolar region, these islands are largely uninhabited by humans – rocky, windy, treeless and wild. Birds and aquatic creatures thrive… along with a few mammals.

St. Paul in the Pribilofs has a small indigenous community…. With some colorful houses that help to brighten the cold and dark days of winter.

Another mammal that calls St Paul home is the northern fur seal….

Dutch Harbor is the largest human settlement in the Aleutians with a population of about 4,300.

It has a thriving fishing industry (think Alaskan king crab and pollock), and a fascinating history as a focus of activity in World War II. Relics of its military history remain.

If you are a student of the era, check out the role the Aleutians played – with the US and Japan grappling on land, sea and air for possession of these distant outposts – and the devastating impact on the indigenous Aleut communities.

Bald eagles love Dutch Harbor and some of the easy pickings near the docks and fisheries.

On a fine day, it’s a great place to take a break from the frantic expedition activity.

Another World War II relic – a bomber that could not find its way to the airfield due to inclement weather on Atka Island… the pilot survived.

A land mammal spotting! A juvenile fox, slurping up tiny fish on the beach as intrepid explorers prepare to wade through surrounding bogs.

Another intricate jellyfish.

Adak Island, where relentless hikers scaled the top of the distant peak…..

While others of us chose the road more traveled….

The next posting will be from the high seas of the Pacific!

Long traverses of the globe – Tertius and Ty from Cape Town to Johannesburg to Doha to Seattle and us on a short hop from Dallas – and ultimately our little group assembled in Anchorage with no delays. A fine rainbow (unfortunately not pictured) seemed a promising omen for a grand adventure ahead.

A burn ban precluded the traditional firecracker send-off at home, but we made up for it with confetti in a niche in the forest behind our motel at Bird Creek, Alaska.

First stop – an icon of American outdoorsman culture……

A visit to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center to view mammals that will not otherwise be seen on our voyage……

Up the lift to see the mountains surrounding the Alyeska ski area. Ty constructed a nearly perfect snowball/iceball!

And we met a charming couple on holiday from Malta….. they just saw a black bear fishing in a stream!

Turnagain Arm is an extension of Anchorage’s Cook Inlet which twice daily features a tidal bore – a phenomenon where the rising ocean tide meets the opposing water flow from glacier melt to produce a wave.

A pretty shot against the chilly, windy and gray backdrop – such a welcome change from the sweltering heat of home!

A short flight to Nome, a distant outpost of less than 4,000 people. It is the end point of the Iditarod sled dog race, and the jumping off point for our expedition cruise.

It is a typical arctic town with a grocery, a few shops, a small museum or two. It is on the Bering Sea not far from Russia. A fellow traveler told me that as our planet warms, shipping routes through the Arctic region will become vital, and Nome is positioned to assume a key role in the not-too-distant future of global transportation.

Today, however, its distance from the rest of the world means scarcity of some products and high prices…..

Not so bleak, however – as local artists show an appreciation for the natural wonders and wildlife that surrounds them.

From Nome we board a Lindblad vessel to begin our voyage….

It’s huge! Almost no end of new places to discover, so here we go again. But first, a recap of the last few months under the East Texas heat dome….

A festive birthday with dogs providing the entertainment.

The garden at a moment early in the season before the inferno took over…..

The tomato crop was plentiful. Perfect for the basic tomato sandwich (on white bread with good mayo.)

Okra (traditional and burgundy) flourished (and continues to do so) – with a little white tree frog contemplating nature’s bounty.

And watermelon – not the finest crop but a great source of hydration…. And Sally O’Malley the dog loves them!

But honestly, the heat and humidity have made outdoor activity miserable, and we are so happy to have planned this escape.

The first part of the journey begins in Anchorage, Alaska; from there, we fly to Nome and board an expedition ship that traverses the Aleutian Islands, crosses the Pacific Ocean, then meanders along the eastern coast of Japan.

For this adventure, our friends from South Africa – Tertius and Ty – will be joining us. Exciting things always happen when we travel with them.

The Wild Coast of South Africa….

Will post again from our starting point in Alaska!